Digital Portfolio.

Task 2-

Risk assessment.

HAZARD	RISK	ACTION TAKEN
Tripod	Yourself or others tripping over the tripod legs. The camera falling off and breaking.	Keep near the tripod, to avoid any accident. Make the risk clear to remind yourself and others with the use of safety tape around the tripod.
Landscape Photography	Area where taking photos may be unsafe eg, a high cliff, slippery surface.	Survey the area for risks, and take action, eg, attach a harness if taking photos on the edge of a high drop, wear appropriate shoes and clothing.
Studio Photography	Yourself and others may trip over equipment eg, loose cables, lights.	Tape cables tightly to floor, and away from walkways, double check for loose edges on the tape.
Macro Photography	If taking photos of natural objects eg, an insect, defensive plants- nettles, thorns.. you could harm yourself.	Do research on what your trying to capture, and the best way to go about it, to prevent any incidents.
Architecture Photography	You may be up high or in an awkward position in order to achieve certain photos- or falling structures in derelict buildings.	Make sure you look into where your photographing to make sure its a safe area and environment.
Street Photography	You are more vulnerable when in possession of expensive equipment. People may find your photography aggravating and you may be in some sort of harm.	Never go out on your own, make sure you have somebody else for safety. Ask peoples permission or be discreet when shooting others.

Task 3-

Proposal.
In order to complete my assignment task I have decided to use the fast shutter technique. I have chosen to use this as I have very much enjoyed practicing it and the way in which it captures a moment at the exact second it takes place, missing nothing, which can make the resulting image look dramatic and captivating. For the photograph itself I plan to have water poured over the subjects head. I hope that if I capture the photograph at just the right moment that the resulting image/images will be as stunning as I anticipate. To take the photograph I will have to set my camera to a short exposure of about 1/2000 to ensure I capture the movement of the water at the precise time I want it to. The aperture will depend of the lighting situation outside, as I plan on taking the images in my garden. The ISO will have to be on a high setting to compensate the lack of light getting through due to the short length of time the shutter is open.

Task 4-

Photographs.

Task 6-

Evaluation.

Before taking my desired photograph I decided to do a couple of test shots to see if I could capture the falling of the water. I did this by getting a subject to pour water from a height that allowed me to catch the water hitting the ground and mid-flow also. Doing this before hand gave me the idea to take three photographs, one where the water is just about to hit the subject, one where it hits the subject just and the last where the water covers the whole of the subject. It also gave me the chance to set my camera to the correct settings, which were ISO 3200, F4.5, Shutter speed 1/2000 and with it being typically poor lighting condidtions I had to change my white balance to 'tungsten light' to brighten my image as I was unable to use flash due the limited shutter speed you can use when on this setting. When taking the photograph itself I decided to do it in my backgarden were I was able to have the space I needed. I had two subjects helping me, one to pour the water over the other and the other to have the water being poured over. I feel really happy with the resulting images. The first image I am not as happy with, due to the poor quality of it, but I do believe this is because of the lighting I was working with. Both the second and the last photograph I feel where the better of the three due to the dramtic effect that comes from such a simple and natural substance. I am also pleased with the way I managed to capture each photograph at the exact moment I wished to, and even more pleased that it only took the one attempt for each image. If I were ever to try this again I would make sure I repeated it in much more appropriate light or supplied my own light source.

Tom's Evaluation

During our time so far on this course we have covered many different styles and techniques in photography. Each and everyone I cannot say I didn't enjoy, the major differences and quirky styles they portray make is most definite that I will continue and better my self in these techniques.


Street Photography
When attempting street photography we went out into Leeds city centre and photographed people/objects on the streets, who to them where going about their everyday lives, but to me were visually interesting. We were also asked to try and capture pictures that told a story, which proved difficult. It was hard taking photographs of people without them realising and a few times it became very uncomfortable and awkward between myself and the stranger. Instead of invading on their privacy I turned to asking their permission, which I was fortunate that all of them agreed. I found that these images were nothing on the candid shots a took previously. I really enjoyed doing street photography and although it was slightly seedy it was also somewhat thrilling. The images I got came out really well and I will defiantly be continuing with this style of photography in the future.

Painting With Light
When having a go at painting with light we attempted it in a small classroom with limited space, with the lights off and the curtains closed to restrain as much light as possible. We were only able to use very limited resources, being my phone back light as the drawing instrument and the camera having to be hand held rather that the use of a tripod. Even with such limited space and resources the images came out very well, as it is in your hands to how creative you are that the outcome of the images will be. Knowing that the images came out so well it interests me to think what you could do with this fascinating and somewhat beautiful technique. We have been asked to shoot five more images in our own time, using the style of our own choice. I have decided  I will attempted painting with light again, but in better circumstances and with better resources.

Macro Photography
When trying out macro photography we went to a local park next to the college and photographed objects that appealed interesting and things that you wouldn't usually photograph, but when paying attention to detail there were many simple objects that became the most fascinating. This was apparent due to the colours, textures and the intricate details. One disadvantage when shooting in this style was not having a macro lense, which allows you to get extremely close up to the object you are capturing, keeping all the fine details alive and vibrant. I believe because of this I didn't get the most out of the shoot as I wanted to, even though I do feel my images came out brilliantly. I also feel almost inclined to purchase a macro lense in the foreseeing future after enjoying it and being intrigues by it so much. It is defiantly one of my favourite styles and I will be sure to revisit it once again.

Shutter Speed Photography
When having a go at fast shutter photography for the first time we shot it in a classroom with again very limited space. We captured each other doing very simple body moving activities such as jumping, spinning, shaking out heads and all the images came out very dramatic and eye-catching. I had allot of fun doing this shoot and I like the idea of fast shutter photography as I feel you have a very wide range of ways to go with it whether is capturing a waving flag to an ongoing football game. I love the fact that it captures the exact moment that you want it to, with no delay or disturbance. I shall defiantly be having a go at this style again in my own time, where I can allow myself more freedom and space to run with it and create the exact photography that I want to get.

Macro Photography.

Taken by Healzo

Macro photography is close up, detailed photography. This technique enables you to capture even the slightest details of the object you are shooting. Macro photography can reveal hidden textures, patterns, shapes and colour, that cannot usually be seen in such detail by the naked eye.

Taken by Kristoffer Jonsson

When having my own go at this technique, I went to a small park in Leeds where I shot visually interesting objects, usually such things as insects and flower and anything that I thought had interesting textures which would look great close up. For the majority of my photographs I used an aperture of (f5.6) a shutter speed of (1/60) and ISO 400.

High Key Photography Richard Avedon

High key photography is the use of ‘high key lighting’ in the images. High key lighting is very bright, with exposure levels to high values.  High key images usually present a positive feel, along with being somewhat ramatic. 

This is the set up used for the high key photo shoot that we did, two lights with soft boxes facing towards the model and a white background. The camera was set to an ISO of 200, shutter speed of 1/125 and we started off with the f number at 22 for the first image:

For this image I lowered the f number to 20, which made the photo slightly lighter.

For this image I lowered the f number again, this time to 18, this again lightened the photo.

For the final photo I once again lowered the f number to 16, giving me the brightest photograph of all four shots.

Watermark

We got shown  how to watermark our own images, this is to prevent copyright. We did this in Photoshop by creating a new transparent layer, adding text, outer glow and inner glow to our images.

The Mob

The only one's not governed by their rules are the dead. Running the streets with an iron fist.
Ruthless, swift, their justice prevails. I won't tell you who they are I fear my safety. How i miss high school. Ruled by the kids who were perceived to be cool.

Low Key Photography

Low key photography is the use of 'low key lighting' in the images. High key lighting creates eye catching contrasts through reduced lighting. Low key images usually present a dramatic fell and full of mystery.
All the photos I took were shot at ISO 200, aperture- F11 and shutter speed- 1/25. To find out the correct aperture to capture the lighting, we used a light meter and took a light reading next to the subject.

For this image I used two lights and a reflector sheet. One light facing the subjects left side, the other facing the back of the subjects head and the reflector sheet being held at the right hand side of the subject. The light facing the back of the head gives the image a halo effect, and the reflector sheet highlights the subjects face in certain areas.

For this image I used two lights. One light facing the subjects left side and the other facing the backdrop behind the subjects head. The light facing the backdrop creates a spotlight effect.

For this image I used two lights. One light facing the subjects left side and the other facing the back of the subjects head. The light facing the back of the subjects head creates a halo effect.

For this image I used only one light. This light faced the subjects left side. The light facing the subjects left said creates the basic low key image.

Shutter Speed

Shutter Speed is the amount of time that the shutter is open for. The shutter speed is measured in seconds ranging from long exposures of 30 or more seconds to fast speeds of anything as short as 1/8000 seconds. By altering the speed of the shutter you have control of the subjects movement. A slow shutter speed will blur the movement where as the fast shutter speed will freeze the subject with the sense of movement often still present.

Taken by Isaac Bauman

Taken by Duane Hart

The use of varing shutter speeds is particually popular in sports photography, due to the huge amount of variety in the result, from capturing movement to freezing a moment. Using either a slow or fast shutter speed can change the outcome of the image compleatly, but each adding drama and depth to the photo that you couldnt get with the average shutter speed.

Attempting the use of slow and fast shutter speeds in photography for the first time, I decided I wanted to have a go at painting with light, which is only successful with the use of a long exposure. To be effective with 'painting with light' and to get the most out of your images you must be in a dark room, or dark space, which I made sure I was. Your ISO must be low to make sure any little light there may be wont be let in through the lense and your shutter speed needs to be on a high setting eg, 10" to capture every slight movement of the light you are

using eg, torch, phone screen, sparkler.

Taken of myself jumping, using the self timer.

When having a go at the use of fast shutter speeds we did the simple activity of jumping, spinning, any movement used with only oursleves. The camera was set to very high shutter eg, 1/1000 and the ISO and aperture set to match, making the images neither over or under exposed. This technique again freezes the moment you want to capture.

Taken of Rebekah shaking her head.